Stephen Barrett – The Wine Wizard
Tapas and New Wave Spanish Wine
Most of us interested in good food and wine will have heard the name Tapas. But do you know what it means and where it came from?
We have to go back a very long time probably to Andalusia in southern Spain. This is an extremely hot corner of Spain’s Mediterranean coast and home to one of the world s most famous drinks, Sherry. Sherry is a lightly fortified wine of some substance currently enjoying a renaissance in bars and restaurants. History tells us that the innkeepers of Andalusia used to place a simple piece of bread on top of a glass of sherry or wine to keep the dust and fruit flies out. This was much appreciated by visiting horsemen who no doubt stopped for “refreshment” on their journey. The Spanish rarely drink without eating some food so I guess it was inevitable that enterprising innkeepers started to place on the bread small morsels of simple cuisine such as local ham, simple slices of cheese, slivers of fish or perhaps marinated vegetables. These became known as Tapas or lid and a culinary gift to the world was born.
Fast forward to the 21st century we now find Tapas bars all over Spain mainly the simple local bar that is utterly uncomplicated serving an array of colourful dishes to accompany the chosen beverage. When I take Wine Tourists to Rioja on a Wine Holiday we stay in the lovely city of Logrono where we visit the incredible Calle Laurel, a honeycomb of approximately 200 tapas bars and restaurants all brilliantly individual, serving the throngs of locals and visitors until early in the morning. Sherry has been replaced with Tinto (red) and Blanco (white) wines usually offered very young, often chilled and very moreish. The Tintos are made from the grapes Tempranillo and Garnacha and have probably seen little of no oak. These are the juicy wines that chill well and match a plethora of foods ranging from Spicy Seafood to Garlic laced Mushrooms.br>
Spanish whites have come a long way since the (very expensive) oak-aged Blancos or dull inconsistent younger versions, often of no particular breeding. They have all but been replaced with exciting wines from Galicia, Rueda, Rioja and Penedes. Made with the grapes, Viura, Verdejo, Alborinio and Godello these fascinating indigenous wines are now very fresh and carefully made and should be considered as an excellent alternative to your current favourite white wine.
Try
Campo Viejo Viura 2007 around £5.99 at Sainsbury’s or Thresher showing green apple fruit and lemon scent with a bone-dry finish. Clean and fruity to the last drop. Cava is also an inexpensive alternative to Champagne as a casual sparkler that certainly lifts the spirits and is also a terrific match for seafood and vegetarian-orientated Tapas. What ever occasion Cava will fit the bill whether own-label style or big brand up-market styles hat are all over the supermarkets and often on offer! Again Campo Viejo has come up trumps with a White and Rose Cava both top-notch with brilliant fruit persistence and aroma, Tesco stocks both around £6.99 before discount
Tapas have certainly arrived in the UK with restaurants and bars offering a stream of different styles and flavours. They are pretty easy to invent and beat the ubiquitous canapé and “yesterday’s vol au vents” hands down.
Stephen Barrett is a Wine and Food Writer, broadcaster and Restaurateur working from is restaurant Bistro One in Plymouth’s Ebrington Street.
He also operates
www.wineholidays.com. specialising in Wine Tours to Rioja, Bordeaux and Burgundy.
